PDA

View Full Version : Where to tap in to power a fuel pump


66droptop
February 15th, 2006, 09:45 PM
The '98 bikes are carbureted and gravity fed. No fuel pump. I'm about to run an aftermarket MSD fuel pump on my bike though. It's an in-line electric pump, and therefore it will need power. I want it to turn on and off along with the bike. I could just tie it into the battery and run a seperate switch, but that's the ghetto way. Like I said, I want it to turn on and off along with the bike and the ignition kill switch on the right grip.

So, my question is: where can I splice my pump's wiring in to give it power that is dependent on the grip's kill switch?

Do I need to buy this: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=SUM-890023 also? Or can I just splice the pump in somewhere?

blayne
February 15th, 2006, 11:48 PM
as a sparky i'd just grab a multi meter and go a huntin'


must be able to get it off the coil. maybe. i'd be concerned about current drain and cable sizes so the use of a relay would be good.

66droptop
February 17th, 2006, 10:26 PM
What if I used the wiring from the now un-used license plate light for power? Is it enough? I could also use the cyclops light from the front of the bike.

What does the relay I posted the link to do?

I hate electricity.

Mark 900RR
February 18th, 2006, 06:20 AM
OK DO NOT RUN THE FUEL PUMP OFF THE LICENSE PLATE LIGHT. A relay is what you need. The relay gets a signal from the on/off source then switches and pulls power from the battery to power the fuel pump becuase they draw quite abit of current.. Just buy the wiring kit and it will explain how to wire it up. Oh and you can find out how a ralay works by going to howitworks.com or whatever that website is. I hate electricity to.;)

blayne
February 18th, 2006, 10:26 AM
a relay is a way of switching high current devices that need large cables without the need to run thos huge cables to a switch on the dash


its an electromagnet switch (M in th diag) power flows from the switch and closes the contacts from the battry to the load.
from the switch-------l
from battery---------lMl------to load (fuel pump)
to ground-------------l



whats the rating of the pump? eg 12v 5a or 12v 60w. compare that to the wattage of the licence lamp. if the lamp is 5w and the pump is 5w then go for it. but if its 5w versus 10w then don't. if the rating is in amps then use Power(wattage)=voltage X amps.

eg 55 watt headlight equals 12v X 4.6amps

66droptop
February 19th, 2006, 12:54 AM
5.4amps for the pump. Having trouble finding something on the bike at 64.8watts.



So if I buy the "suggested part" relay (http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=SUM-890023), then all my problems are solved, right?

truman_carter
February 19th, 2006, 11:14 AM
It would help but if you look at the rating it is only rated at 30 amps and tha is pretty common, but you said your fuel pump needed 64.8 and that is a major load on a motorcycle even though it runs a magnito it can cause a very bad Drain and premature loss of the Magnito.... is the 64 a constant or a surge draw? Might want to make a trip to the Track and ask a few of the guys about their set ups, or if you have a good electrical shop one that rebuilds alternators ect they should have knowledge about Mags as well or at least can put you on right path to draw issues,

Working with Custom car stereos I had major issues with curent Draws ect and my guy at the local Alternator shop hooked me up with things every time, some times it was just as simple as a different relay, and some times as easy as a small capacitor to keep from drawing to much it would hit capacitor instead of pulling directly....

you Dont want to fry some thing or have the relay/ or Breaker pop while cruising down a good stretch of highway and have to leave bike on side of road, or sit for hours waiting for someone to come get you . It might work fine for a week then just blow.... Magnitos are great and have more power than most alternators but pulling that much off a system not designed for it is asking for trouble, I had some aftermarket lights (neon) on my 600 for about 3 weeks, I only would run them while in areas I knew cops wouldnt bug, and it messed up my mag I hade to get another one from a newer 600 and took lights off the bike I still had problems with my normal lights flying around it was fine but any time I was stoped or under 2500 rpm my lights were super dim, especially turn signals after I went to the newer mag I always had killer lights very bright and no more problems with power (spark ect).....

Mark 900RR
February 19th, 2006, 04:28 PM
The relay will work and it should come with instructions or you could go down to the local autoparts store and pickup a relay just make sure it will handle the 5.4 amps that your pump draws. When you use a relay you can use an existing switch like your kill switch or ignition switch cuase all the relay needs is a sinal to turn on when it gets that signal it draw power from wherever you wire it in which would be the batery in your case to power the pump. Oh besure to use a fuse in the power cable to your pump you don't want any electrical shorts.

zukman31
February 20th, 2006, 05:40 AM
On my 93 when the stock pump went out I wentto autozone and bought a little Holley square metal pump that only put out 4 psi. and I had no problem at all. Nowon my buddys 97 CBR it has the plug in where you can put a fuel pump into the circuit just like the older 93-95`s have

blayne
February 20th, 2006, 10:35 PM
its not a huge power drain but an addition of 65w will pretty much stuff you when you go to start after a ride. the magneto will be only designed to supply enough power to run the bike stock plus a small amount. after that your pulling power from the battery. you will be fine if you run LED's instead of incandescant or never use the high beam for too long.

66droptop
February 20th, 2006, 10:53 PM
its not a huge power drain but an addition of 65w will pretty much stuff you when you go to start after a ride. the magneto will be only designed to supply enough power to run the bike stock plus a small amount. after that your pulling power from the battery. you will be fine if you run LED's instead of incandescant or never use the high beam for too long.
I've got Sylvania Silverstar headlights, but LED tail/brake light bulb replacements, LED front running lights, and no license plate light. Idle and low rpm might be a drain, but I think anything over 2500rpm should be fine. Just going off of the change in my headlights' brightness between 1000rpm idle and 2000rpm throttle blips.

blayne
February 22nd, 2006, 12:16 PM
i added a 55w wheelie spotlight in my bellypan. when i use it and my highs for more than 3-4 minutes, i can't start the bike next time. everything lighting wise is stock on my bike.

the leds will save you some power but not alot as most tail lights are too bright. 20w i think but i'm guessing. two of them plus 5w for licence plate and 5w each for the runners gets you about 55w. rough guess though. the silvania globes won't matter as long as they are standard wattage. they are just a brighter due to lumen range of 5k instead of 4k.

have you found a tap point yet?

66droptop
February 22nd, 2006, 01:40 PM
have you found a tap point yet?
Going the relay route with either the ignition or the kill switch and the battery for power. I've killed my battery with the fan before, and with leaving the lights on for a little bit in between starting the bike (in the garage wrenching on it). Hopefully this doesn't drain my power, because that would suck. I guess I'll approach that problem if/when it comes up.