Clutch engaging on engine rev

[Big Kahuna]

Okay, strange problem here.

Anyone ever had any problems with the clutch engaging and the bike jumping when the engine is rev'd? I was setting up for little drag with some friends, but every time I got the revs up the clutch engaged for a split second and the bike lunged forward violently. Scared the **** outta me!!!

It maybe just whilst in first gear, I'll have to try it when I get home in second and above.

I have never had this happen in all my years of riding.

[66droptop]

The bike has shifted forward due to the engine torque when revving it. But I've never had the clutch start to engage and move the bike forward.

[gixerkiller]

Okay, strange problem here.

Anyone ever had any problems with the clutch engaging and the bike jumping when the engine is rev'd? I was setting up for little drag with some friends, but every time I got the revs up the clutch engaged for a split second and the bike lunged forward violently. Scared the **** outta me!!!

It maybe just whilst in first gear, I'll have to try it when I get home in second and above.

I have never had this happen in all my years of riding.

i think it has a slipper clutch in it so if this is right then your slipper needs to be adjusted.
if not your basket might be notched or you may have a bent shift fork.

never seen this or heard of this.......interesting

[Doright]

Wow sounds spooky,:reallyscared I have no Idea why a bike would do this other than the clutch is screwd up and needs a rebuild. what kind of RPM is it doing it at?

I do have a question though my clutch fluid was light golden color when I bought the bike just over a week ago now with almost a thousand miles more on it its almost black any ideas? what would cause this the clutch to be getting so hot to burn the oil or is the fluid eating a seal some place.

[CharlieHo]

1000RRs do not have a slipper clutch, but the basket does deserve a look-see.

The clutch fluid turning a dark color is normal. You can change it out if you feel like it when it turns. Over time, and subsequent changes, it will take longer and longer to turn dark. I really don't know why this is, it just is.

[Doright]

Thanks Charlie
I bet its a seal doing it especialy if it gets better with age.
Is DOT 3 Break oil ok to use or do they have some special stuff for it?

[CharlieHo]

I believe it's DOT 4 or 5, definitely not 3.
Yes brake fluid is what you use.

[66droptop]

Clutch fluid? What are you guys talking about?

Clutch = wet design = fluid = engine oil shared with the rest of the engine


Where did brake fluid come into this? Does the 1krr have a hydraulic clutch instead of cable?

[CharlieHo]

Where did brake fluid come into this? Does the 1krr have a hydraulic clutch instead of cable?

yes

[Doright]

Big Kahuna
So what was causing your problem did you find out?

[Big Kahuna]

Still unknown.

I did an oil change and bled all new fluid thorugh the ctutch, and it seemed to help the reengaging while holding the clutch in a reving the engine.

The only thing else I noticed was I can't feather the clutch when trying to take off quick from a stand still. If I get the revs up real high and try to let out the clutch, the bike does that quick engage thing and then quickly disengages. Still pretty scary and I'm not sure what to do. Other than that, I haven't noticed any other problems when out riding.

[CharlieHo]

Has the clutch ever been changed? Maybe something isn't quite right in there...

Might just set an hour or so aside and pull the cover. Pull all the discs out and inspect the basket. As Gixerkiller suggested, the basket may be notched from abuse by previous owner. Also check the judder spring, the OD should be pointing out away from the engine.

I think I posted some tips on working on the 1000 clutch in another post, I'll look and link it if I did...

[CharlieHo]

OK I couldn't find it...

I guess this as as good as anytime to do it again in an abbreviated version

Obviously you need to pull the right side lower.

You DO NOT have to drain the oil.

When you get all the cover bolts out, use caution as there is a sensor bolted to the inside of the cover that you will need to remove. There is (barely) enough slack in the wires to lay it in your lap is you are seated beside the bike.
Also note, there is a wave spring and washer on a shaft that rides in a boss formed into the cover. The very first thing I do is make sure the spring/washer does not fall down into the engine. Pick 'em out and lay them somewhere safe...

Pulling the clutch apart involves only removing the 5 bolts and springs. Pull the pressure plate off and start pulling discs.
Note the very first friction disc is in the basket unlike the remaining discs, it rides in slots unused by the others...
You will probably need a small set of "booger pickers" to get all the plates/discs out...

The very last piece floating around in there is the judder spring, a large diameter spring washer. Lying flat on a surface it looks something like: \_________________/
The OD should face AWAY from the engine/hub!!!

Inspect the basket and look for any cuts into the slots. You don't want any...

Anything else should be pretty obvious, such as warped plates, broken discs, and the like. Inspect all the friction components for wear and burnt places. Replace as a kit if necessary.

Reinstall just like you took it apart. The 5 bolts holding the springs and pressure plate on have a torque spec of 9 inch-pounds, again 9 INCH-POUNDS, I didn't say foot-pounds. This is extremely important, not that it gets tight enough, but that it does not get overtightened and break a bolt. You basically are bottoming out the bolt. I no longer use a torque wrench as I've done it enough, I just use a 1/4" drive and just barely nudge them tight.

Use just a touch of RTV around the cover and you're good.


Hope this helps someone :)