Turbo Guys!!

[66droptop]

Pictures!!

The bike (couple weeks ago):
Attachment 542
Attachment 544
It's got a turbo and exhaust on it now. Oh, and that's my Galaxie in the background.

Head gasket thickness:
Attachment 540
Attachment 541
The second picture is blurry, but it's the best I could do. It's about as thick as a Quarter. The first picture shows a hole that used to be lined up. The thickness of the Cometic gasket is pretty easy to see with how off-center the hole now is.

Custom 35T sprocket made from a 45T sprocket. Aluminum sucks, by the way:
Attachment 543

Overview:
Attachment 545

Fuel:
(Stock w/ filter):
Attachment 553
Now:
Attachment 546
Attachment 547
The fuel pump screams from beneath the seat and it fits perfectly. The bracket for the regulator took some working. The pressure adjusting screw atop the regulator is 1/16" from the bottom of the tank when fully extended. My pressure gauge is in the process of being shipped to my house at the moment, then I'll just T it into the line. I forgot what it was called, but I went with the non-deadheading fuel style. And everything is meticulously measured out so it all matches, though in the pictures it looks like the fuel lines form more of an inverted A than the H they really do. New Fram fuel filter since my old clear one would simply explode under pressure. All new lines and T's from Ace. No sharp corners, everything is nicely rounded and pretty well concealed.

Electrical:
Attachment 548
Attachment 549
The yellow wire ties into the black/white wire from the module which is power to the kill switch. When BOTH the kill switch is on & the key is on, the pump has power. The purple wire is the positive for the pump. Red goes to the positive terminal on the battery, a circuit breaker, and the relay. Black goes from the relay to the negative terminal. A second black wire goes from the negative terminal to the negative post on the pump. The relay is held in place with a stock screw that happened to be ideally placed. Nothing interferes with the seat. The pump isn't secured into place yet.

Gutting for the radiator:
Attachment 550
Attachment 551
Attachment 552
The stock 900RR radiator is maybe 1/8th of an inch too thick to fit between the subframe rails. Can't hammer a radiator and can't hammer the subframe, so I'm getting a heater core from a fox body Mustang. They're 7 3/4" instead of ~8.whatever". The control module used to be mounted to some of the plastic that got canned. It fits perfectly behind the fuel pump though. So I'll just have to drill & rivet the module's holder bracket into place and it'll be good to go.

Originally Posted by 66droptop

Pictures!!

The bike (couple weeks ago):
Attachment 542
Attachment 544
It's got a turbo and exhaust on it now. Oh, and that's my Galaxie in the background.

Head gasket thickness:
Attachment 540
Attachment 541
The second picture is blurry, but it's the best I could do. It's about as thick as a Quarter. The first picture shows a hole that used to be lined up. The thickness of the Cometic gasket is pretty easy to see with how off-center the hole now is.

Custom 35T sprocket made from a 45T sprocket. Aluminum sucks, by the way:
Attachment 543

Overview:
Attachment 545

Fuel:
(Stock w/ filter):
Attachment 553
Now:
Attachment 546
Attachment 547
The fuel pump screams from beneath the seat and it fits perfectly. The bracket for the regulator took some working. The pressure adjusting screw atop the regulator is 1/16" from the bottom of the tank when fully extended. My pressure gauge is in the process of being shipped to my house at the moment, then I'll just T it into the line. I forgot what it was called, but I went with the non-deadheading fuel style. And everything is meticulously measured out so it all matches, though in the pictures it looks like the fuel lines form more of an inverted A than the H they really do. New Fram fuel filter since my old clear one would simply explode under pressure. All new lines and T's from Ace. No sharp corners, everything is nicely rounded and pretty well concealed.

Electrical:
Attachment 548
Attachment 549
The yellow wire ties into the black/white wire from the module which is power to the kill switch. When BOTH the kill switch is on & the key is on, the pump has power. The purple wire is the positive for the pump. Red goes to the positive terminal on the battery, a circuit breaker, and the relay. Black goes from the relay to the negative terminal. A second black wire goes from the negative terminal to the negative post on the pump. The relay is held in place with a stock screw that happened to be ideally placed. Nothing interferes with the seat. The pump isn't secured into place yet.

Gutting for the radiator:
Attachment 550
Attachment 551
Attachment 552
The stock 900RR radiator is maybe 1/8th of an inch too thick to fit between the subframe rails. Can't hammer a radiator and can't hammer the subframe, so I'm getting a heater core from a fox body Mustang. They're 7 3/4" instead of ~8.whatever". The control module used to be mounted to some of the plastic that got canned. It fits perfectly behind the fuel pump though. So I'll just have to drill & rivet the module's holder bracket into place and it'll be good to go.

holly ****!!!!!! how much hp and torque do you think that thing will make?

hey just some advice....re-check everything....a kick over and explosion of fire would suck.

[66droptop]

Originally Posted by gixerkiller

holly ****!!!!!! how much hp and torque do you think that thing will make?

hey just some advice....re-check everything....a kick over and explosion of fire would suck.

I haven't even put clamps on the fuel lines yet. Since I'm going to need to clamp my vacuum/boost lines, the coolant lines, and the fuel lines, I'm waiting until I've got them all done so I can count the total number of clamps I need. So when I get to that, I'll be rechecking everything.

If you like the Binelli Tornado, you're really going to like my 2nd radiator and how I'm setting it up. I hope to be done with it tomorrow. I got a lot of the major stuff done today. It's going to be sweet.

I'm aiming for 220whp.

Originally Posted by 66droptop

I haven't even put clamps on the fuel lines yet. Since I'm going to need to clamp my vacuum/boost lines, the coolant lines, and the fuel lines, I'm waiting until I've got them all done so I can count the total number of clamps I need. So when I get to that, I'll be rechecking everything.

If you like the Binelli Tornado, you're really going to like my 2nd radiator and how I'm setting it up. I hope to be done with it tomorrow. I got a lot of the major stuff done today. It's going to be sweet.

I'm aiming for 220whp.

can't wait to see it......220.....**** that ought to be fun, can't wait to see the look on the ricers face when you realy blow him away....lol

[Shocker]

Is this how much power its going to have?

http://videos.streetfire.net/search/...796fd394ad.htm

[66droptop]

The bike will be running by the end of tomorrow. I took some pictures tonight of the 2nd radiator and how I did it, but I can't find the cable to put them on the computer. I had a badass reverse-scoop to channel air out, but if I fill in the tail of the bike and basically just go straight across from the lower edge of the plastics, I don't think I'm going to have enough clearance for my tire and suspension travel, particularly with the wheelie bars on and the rear lowered with the adjustable strut that replaces the coil-over shock. So for now it'll be function, and form will come later. It doesn't look bad, but it's not quite the badass look I wanted.

Tomorrow I'm finishing up my coolant lines, filling up on water/antifreeze/water wetter, clamping my fuel lines, plugging the spark plug wires back in, and starting the bike up.

Originally Posted by Shocker

Is this how much power its going to have?

http://videos.streetfire.net/search/...796fd394ad.htm

Now that's just ridiculous. That's power that's just not usable by something with that short a wheelbase and that small of a contact patch.

[Shocker]

Originally Posted by 66droptop

The bike will be running by the end of tomorrow. I took some pictures tonight of the 2nd radiator and how I did it, but I can't find the cable to put them on the computer. I had a badass reverse-scoop to channel air out, but if I fill in the tail of the bike and basically just go straight across from the lower edge of the plastics, I don't think I'm going to have enough clearance for my tire and suspension travel, particularly with the wheelie bars on and the rear lowered with the adjustable strut that replaces the coil-over shock. So for now it'll be function, and form will come later. It doesn't look bad, but it's not quite the badass look I wanted.

Tomorrow I'm finishing up my coolant lines, filling up on water/antifreeze/water wetter, clamping my fuel lines, plugging the spark plug wires back in, and starting the bike up.




Now that's just ridiculous. That's power that's just not usable by something with that short a wheelbase and that small of a contact patch.

No that’s just insane to make that amount of power to a stock wheel base bike.

[66droptop]

Well I started it today. But fuel was leaking from the petcock because I have the incorrect o-ring in there to replace the one that is somehow missing and my carbs were dumping gas out of them. I should only have like 2psi of fuel, but my fuel pressure gauge wasn't even reading what it was. So who knows. I just about cried. And if my leg were trapped in a bear trap out in the woods, I would gnaw it off without a tear. This crushed me.

So I've got carbs that seem to be leaking from the drains in the bottom, but I really couldn't tell since there were so many leaks. They were also leaking from the two T's (one between carbs 1/2 and the other between carbs 3/4) but that seemed to stop after I wiggled them around a bit. Still no idea why my carbs are gushing though.

Maybe I'll just finish putting the shtbox together then I'll take it to a shop and just tell them to make it stop leaking, get it to run smooth, and return it back to me after it can eclipse 200whp with an ~11:1 air:fuel ratio.

Oh, and the bike is loud. It sounds like my old exhaust did. But it was running really rough from all the fuel issues and I'm not sure if I did two of the spark plug wires correctly. I also didn't have the plenum attached or any of the ducting. Just a filter on the turbo, my exhaust, and open carbs.

[Peter]

Pah just teething problems Rob. Expect a lot more of it before you're done. It will be worth it in the end.

I'd suggest some kind of clamp to hold that pump secure, they are a heavy old lump and you don't wan't ANY movement that can lead to fractured/chafed fuel lines over time. Also, don't run the bike under load with the plenum off or you'll over-speed the turbo and wreck the compressor wheel.

Looking good so far mate, keep up the good work

[Shocker]

I think your problem with the leaking fuel is you are running to much fuel pressure to the carburetors. Once the bowls are full the float in the carb stops fuel from entering and if you are forcing fuel into the card then its going to go out the overflows or vent lines.

I think its going to be very difficult to tune a Carbureted bike running boost, fuel injection is the only way to go when running any amount of boost.

[66droptop]

Originally Posted by Peter

Pah just teething problems Rob. Expect a lot more of it before you're done. It will be worth it in the end.

I'd suggest some kind of clamp to hold that pump secure, they are a heavy old lump and you don't wan't ANY movement that can lead to fractured/chafed fuel lines over time. Also, don't run the bike under load with the plenum off or you'll over-speed the turbo and wreck the compressor wheel.

Looking good so far mate, keep up the good work

The mounts that came with the pump won't work with where I've got the pump stuffed, so I'm just going to use two large clamps and reuse the rubber cushions from the mounts. I just haven't gotten around to it yet in the excitement of trying to get the bike to run.

I remembered your advice about revving it from before. I only gave it a couple blips. I didn't look at the tach, but it probably didn't clear 2000rpm or 1/4 throttle.


I think my carb problem might be that they haven't held fuel in 6 months and the gaskets might have been a little dried up. Each replacement gasket is $21.00 + shipping, so I'm trying to think of alternatives. Maybe some gasoline-proof sealant, but I may need to open them back up to change the jetting. Hmmm...

[Shocker]

The fuel pump you are running makes 43gph @40psi, with that amount of fuel going to a carburetor there going to leak like you didn’t hook up a fuel line cause your over powering the needle’s which are connected to the floats, therefore pouring out the overflows.

I’m pretty sure fuel pumps for carburetors run a max of ~10psi.

[66droptop]

Originally Posted by Shocker

The fuel pump you are running makes 43gph @40psi, with that amount of fuel going to a carburetor there going to leak like you didn’t hook up a fuel line cause your over powering the needle’s which are connected to the floats, therefore pouring out the overflows.

I’m pretty sure fuel pumps for carburetors run a max of ~10psi.

But I've got a return line to the tank and a pressure regulator that's turned down as low as possible. It'll move a lot of fuel, but it shouldn't be under much pressure. Right?

And I'll need a pump that makes more than 10psi because I plan on running more boost than that. Can't be running more boost than fuel.

[Peter]

Won't hurt just revving it Rob, you need a good load on the engine to really spin up the turbo, revving it with no load would be fine.


Shocker could be right about the pump. If it's shifting more fuel than the return-line can handle it will push up the pressure to the bowls. Also, I know at least one bike I had used to leak like a bitch if you drained the carbs because the float used to catch on the bowl and stick there. A quick tap on the side of the carbs used to fix it.

Re: the gaskets - $21 each is outrageous. They must be made from unobtanium! I would make some before spending that much.

[Brent]

Just FYI - this is the longest post we have ever had here.........

Pretty impressive....


No - No prizes will be awarded...... but its good to see people are really starting to use the board.

[66droptop]

How do you make gaskets?

The pump's inlet is 3/8" and the outlet is 5/16". I'm running 3/8" (inner diameter) hose and all the fittings maintain the 3/8" size. Do you think that's too small/restrictive?

[Peter]

Originally Posted by 66droptop

How do you make gaskets?

The pump's inlet is 3/8" and the outlet is 5/16". I'm running 3/8" (inner diameter) hose and all the fittings maintain the 3/8" size. Do you think that's too small/restrictive?

No, you only need a 1/4" hole to run your target HP (my own bike ran 300hp through a 7mm line) . It's the rueturn system, more specifically the pressure regulator - if it can't flow enough fuel through to basically return ALL of the pump's flow capacity, then fuel pressure will increase at idle. You need to fit a fuel pressure gauge to check this. You might need to fit a lower-capacity pump to cure it if you have a problem. Remember that a fuel pump flows more at low pressure than at high pressure, so to stop the pressure creeping up, you need to be able to shift all of it back to the tank (minus the tiny amount the engine is using at idle).

[Mark 900RR]

Yeah what Peter said I had the same problem on my mazda Rx7 when I went with a holley carb and a high pressure pump. It sucked I had to upgrade my return line took me forever to get it right. Get a good fuel pressure guage and check to see if the pressure creeps up and when you got it tuned make sure the pressure does not drop under a load also. Congrats on getting it started though.

[66droptop]

For whatever reason, perhaps because I don't usually go to sleep for another hour or two, I can't sleep right now. But this gives me lots of time to think.

So now I've got two ideas:

• Run a resistor on the positive line to the fuel pump. It pumps about twice as much fuel as I need, so why not cut the voltage of the pump down to, say, 9 volts? It'll still move enough fuel to satisfy my needs at wide open throttle under boost, but it won't be overloading my system... at least as much. I started out by thinking of dimmer switches (the old resistor type, not the new rapid on-off type) and how boost-a-pumps work.
  
• Run a common plumbing valve, like a 1/4 turn valve, inline after the pump but before the carbs. Choke back the fuel flow. Easier to modulate than the resistor idea but less elegant. Probably more fool proof too.

My regulator shouldn't be a problem. It's a name brand regulator and it doesn't rely on cheap parts. My fuel lines are generously sized and all my turns are gently curved with no kinks. My fuel return is somewhere around 3/8" diameter too. I'd have to ask my fabricator what size line he put in the tank. But when I put in the male-end of the 3/8" barbed nipple into the hole, it didn't have much thickness in the threads. It might be 1/4" but I know it cannot be smaller than that. My return might be small, but it can't be too bad. For now I'll just assume that it is and look for ways to work around it. I'm liking the valve idea.

[Shocker]

Did you make any progress on your bike?

I personally don’t think you can run boost to a carburetor and have it function correctly but not certain. I guess well see if you get yours running correctly. And defiantly can’t run fuel pressure like your doing it. Are you also using a FMU that boost the fuel pressure according to boost if that the case you'll be running massive amounts of fuel pressure (40-80psi)